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Glossary of Embroidery Terms



Anti-Pill: A treatment applied to garments primarily to resist the formation of little balls on the fabric’s surface due to abrasion during wear.


Brushed Cotton: Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove all the excess lint and fibers from the fabric, leaving an ultra soft, smooth finish.


Combed Cotton: Cotton that has gone through a mechanical process which removes short fibers and impurities. Combing produces a stronger, more even, finer, smoother yarn.


Cool Mesh: Similar to a pique knit but with a more open texture for increasing breathability. Features a soft hand for better comfort. (Port Authority Signature).


Denier: A density of the weave in a nylon or polyester product.


Double-Needle stitched: A finish used on a sleeve and/or bottom hem that uses two needles to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It gives the garment a cleaner, more finished look and adds durability.


Dry-Fiber: A high activity sportswear fabric that absorbs, wicks and dries faster than average golfwear.


Dyed-to-Match: Buttons or trims that are the same color as the garment onto which they are sewn.


Etched Tone Buttons: A more upscale horn tone button with an etched pattern.


Extended Tail: When the back portion of the garment is longer than the front. Assists in keeping the garment tucked in during normal activity.


Full Cut: Refers to a garment’s fit as being generous and roomy.


Garment Washed: A wash process where softeners are added to finished garments to help the cotton fibers relax or bloom. The result is a fabric with a thicker appearance, reduced shrinkage and a softer hand.


High Profile: A cap style with a high slope structured with buckram- a stiff lining. Less fitted to the head.


Horn Tone Buttons: Buttons that appear to be manufactured from horn.


Jacquard: A pattern knit directly into the fabric during the manufacturing process.

Typically 2 or more colors are used. There are many variations of jacquard knits.


Jersey Knit: This fabric has a definite smooth side, the outside, and a textured side, the inside.


Locker Loop: A looped piece of fabric in the neck of a garment for the convenience of hanging the garment on a hook. Can also be located at the center of the back yoke on the inside or outside of a garment.


Locker Pocket Patch: A semi-oval panel sewn into the inside of back portion of a garment, just under the collar seam, to reinforce the garment and minimize stretching when hung on a hook. The patch allows for the garment or label to be sewn below the neckline to help prevent irritation.


Low Profile: A cap style with a low slope that is more closely fitted to the head. Can be either structured or unstructured.


Mercerized: A product that has gone through a process to produce a smooth, lustrous hand.


Mesh: Similar to pique knit, but with more open texture for increased breath ability. Larger knit than Cool Weave.


Microfiber: This fabric is tightly woven from a very fine poly thread and has a sueded finish for a luxurious, soft, feel. Microfiber fabric is a naturally water repellent due to its construction process and when specially treated, can also be waterproof.


Micro Fleece: A high density, anti-pilling fleece made of knit micro fibers that are3 brushed less than a regular fleece garment. It has a high capacity for warmth without the weight.


Mid Profile: A cap with a slope height in between that of a High Profile and Low Profile. It is most often structured with buckram.


Ottoman: A tightly woven plain weave ribbed fabric with a hard slightly lustered surface.


Oxford: A type of fabric where the fibers are either cotton or blended man made threads.


Peached: Special brushing treatment used to achieve a soft hand felon the face of the fabric.


Pigment Dyed: A type of dye used to create a distressed or washed look.


Pique Knit: A knitting method that creates a fine textured surface that appears similar to a birdsnest or waffle weave.


Placket: The part of a shirt or jacket where the garment fastens together.


Polynosic: 83% rayon/ 17% poly blend fabric, with a silky and subtle yarn dyed micro check pattern.


Poplin: A tightly woven, durable, medium weight cotton or cotton blend fabric made using rib variation of the plain weave which creates a slight ridge effect.


Raglan Sleeves: Sleeves set with a diagonal seam from the neck to the armpit.


Rapid Dry: Fabric that wicks moisture away from the body to the surface of the fabric where it evaporates.


Reverse Placket: See placket, but reversed for women’s garments.


R-Tek Fleece: 100% polyester fleece with an anti-pill finish which prevents the formation of little balls on the surface of fabric.


Sculpted Hem: A hem that is softly rounded for fashion detail.


Side Seam: Two pieces of fabric sewn together, higher end way of manufacturing a garment.


Side Vents: Slits found at the bottom of side seams. They are fashion details that allow for comfort and ease of movement.


Stonewashed: A washing process in which the fabric or garment is heavily washed with lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls. The result is a softer fabric with a distressed or weathered look and reduced shrinkage.


Structured: A cap style with a lined front consisting of buckram, a stiff fabric, that controls the slope of the cap.


Sueded Cotton: A fabric that goes through a brushing process to raise the nap and give the garment a soft hand.


Terry Velour: A type of material with uncut loops on both sides. It has a soft, plush feel and is water absorbent.


Twill: A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs producing a soft, smooth finish.


Twill Tape Placket Lining: Twill tape is attached to the inside of the placket for a fashion effect.


Unstructured: A low profile cap style with a natural low slopping crown. No buckram has been added to the crown.


Wood Tone Buttons: Buttons that simulate a wood appearance.